The Haygain hay steamer has been shown conclusively in scientific trials to kill harmful mold, fungal spores, bacteria and dust mites found in hay; and remove the health threat from respirable dust.

Research has shown that 88% of horses suffer from Inflammatory Airway Disease (IAD) and that steaming hay with a Haygain hay steamer reduces the incidence by 65%.*

"Haygain is the only method of steaming where I am confident the hay is steamed thoroughly and reaches the required temperatures to improve the hygiene quality of hay with no detrimental effects."
Dr David Marlin, Equine Exercise Physiologist.

"...if I can remove something I know is a potential cause of any form of allergy...at limited cost...it seems likea no brainer"

Chad Davis DVM, Vet Consultant

* Dauvillier J, Woort F. T, Van Erck‐Westergren E. disease (2018) Fungi in respiratory samples of horses with inflammatory airway, Journal of veterinary internal medicine, 2018;1-8

"I am 8 months into my Haygain ownership.The Haygain steamer saved their lives and mine." Susan Cady Lima, Michigan.

"It's been 5 years since I bought my Haygain steamer.It's hands down the most important thing I have ever purchased for my horses' health." Lori Whitman, Wisconsin

"My Haygain hay steamer saved my horses' life! Thank you so much Haygain!"
Martha Ferguson, Toronto

"We’ve been using a Haygain steamer for 9 months and it has made a tremendous difference for us.Belle’s breathing is better and her coat is glorious."
Charlie Lieske, South Carolina

"If I give my horses dry hay it makes them coughbut when they have steamed hay the coughing stops. I wouldn't be without it."Shiela Williams

‹›

Effects of IAD?

The signs of respiratory disease aren't always obvious.

But the effects can be numerous.

Aside from potentially high vet bills, there is considerable impact on the quality of the horse's life - coughing, nasal discharge, increased respiratory rate, increased temperature, abnormal breathing, frequent swallowing, and blood in the nostrils. Also reduced exercise performance as well as slower recovery times.

For your horse

A recent study showed that 88% of horses examined suffered from Inflammatory Airway Disease (IAD). One of the main causes of IAD is respirable dust and a major source of this is hay. IAD can limit an athletic horse’s performance.

Haygain hay steamers are the only scientifically proven method to dramatically reduce respirable dust in hay and kill mold, fungal spores and bacteria that can cause IAD. The above study found that steaming hay with a Haygain hay steamer reduced the risk of your horse developing IAD by 65%*. Read the research.

For the environment

Steaming hay drastically reduces water consumption. Filling a container for soaking hay typically uses 50 - 250 litres. The sheer volume of water used has an impact not just on water bills, but also on the environment.

Post-soak water is contaminated with bacteria, mold, WSC, proteins and minerals which leach out of the hay, making it an environmental pollutant which must not be disposed of in storm drains. Haygain steamers only use about 4 ½ litres of water per cycle and produce no environmental pollutants.

For your wallet

An epidemiological study found respiratory problems in racehorses to be the second highest reason for lost training days.

A dusty stable environment can have financial implications; not jut in lost training days but vet bills.

1. Keep them clean!
   Regularly clean your boots with a good non-alkaline leather cleaner (like Lexol Leather Cleaner). Use a soft cloth and rinse with water. DO NOT USE SADDLE SOAP. It will dry out the hide.
2. Condition your boots.
   Boot leather needs to have its natural moisture restored often with a good conditioner (like Lexol in the BROWN BOTTLE). Wax and polish is NOT a substitute for conditioner. Never condition boots prior to cleaning.
3. Keep boots away from direct heat.
   When your boots get wet, the best way to dry your boots is to walk them dry. They may also be air dried away from all heat sources. DO NOT put them in front of a heater or dry them with a hair drier or blow torch. (Yes, we said blow torch. You should see some of the things that we have been asked to fix.)

CLEANING YOUR BOOTS AFTER A FLOOD

Mold and mildew attack leather and cause it to deteriorate. Start today with these simple steps to save and/or care for your boots.

For standard (non suede-finished) leathers:

1. Rinse all dirt and crud inside and outside of the boots with water from a garden hose. City water is preferred over well water as it has a little chlorine to help kill the mold and mildew. However, well water will work just fine.
2. Wash the boots inside and out with a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and distilled water to kill the mold and mildew. DO NOT RINSE the 50/50 mix off after applying.
3. Allow the boots to dry naturally but OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT or any heat source. Drying them inside with air conditioning is recommended.
4. Wash and scrub them inside and out with a soft-bristled brush or rag using Lexol PH-balanced Leather Cleaner. If you can’t find the Lexol, use Ivory bar soap as a second option. It may take more than one wash and scrubbing to get them clean.
5. Be certain to rinse all the soap off the boots after they are clean.
6. Allow the boots to dry naturally again, inside with air conditioning. It may take more than 24 hours.
7. After all dirt, mold and mildew are removed and the boots are DRY to the touch, apply a light coat of Lexol Leather Conditioner to the exterior and interior of the boots. Allow the conditioner to dry, and then apply a second coat of Lexol Leather Conditioner to the EXERIOR of the boots ONLY.
8. When the boots are thoroughly dry, polish them with a lanolin-based boot cream.

*We do not recommend Mink Oil, Neatsfoot Oil or any one-step cleaner and conditioner for your boots. Please use ONLY Lexol Leather Conditioner that comes in the BROWN BOTTLE.

For suede-finished leathers:

1. Rinse all dirt and crud inside and outside of the boots with water from a garden hose. City water is preferred over well water as it has a little chlorine to help kill the mold and mildew. However, well water will work just fine.
2. Wash the boots inside and out with a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and distilled water to kill the mold and mildew. DO NOT RINSE the 50/50 mix off after applying.
3. Allow the boots to dry naturally but OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT or any heat source. Drying them inside with air conditioning is recommended.
4. Wash them with Ivory Bar Soap using a soft brush or rag.
5. Allow the boots to dry naturally again, inside with air conditioning. It may take more than 24 hours.

Here’s how:

• The Big Green Egg can save precious natural resources. The space-age ceramics that are used in manufacturing the EGGare so durable that the cooker practically becomes a once-in-a-lifetime purchase. On the contrary, most popular-priced metal grills need replacing every three to four years. So, purchasing a ceramic Big Green Egg can actually result in fewer grills going into the waste stream and clogging up landfills. And, it reduces the amount of non-renewable raw materials used to make comparatively short-lived metal grills.
• The heavy walls of the Big Green Egg make it extremely fuel efficient. The cooker uses far less charcoal than other types of charcoal grills. And, any charcoal that remains in the base of the grill after cooking can be reused at the next cookout.
• The Big Green Egg uses all-natural lump charcoal for fuel, which contains no chemical or petroleum-based ingredients or artificial fillers or binders.
• Hardwood lump charcoal is made from unused log sections and recycled wood from lumber mills, furniture factories and other wood processors, diverting further waste material from landfills.
• The natural charcoal lights easily with an electric charcoal lighter or natural lighter cubes made from refined wax and sawdust. This eliminates the need for petroleum-based lighter fluids and the release of damaging volatile organic compounds (VOCs). In addition, the sawdust is another recycled product diverted from landfills.
• Hardwood lump charcoal produces minimal ash compared with regular charcoal briquettes in traditional charcoal grills. What little of the all-natural ash that does remain can be added to your home compost pile to create a rich soil amendment for the garden.

The Big Green Egg shows its true colors – green – in every sense of the word!

The EGGspander System

This is the EGGcessory that you’ve been waiting for! We’ve created the ultimate expansion system for an EGG that will allow you to unleash your full culinary creativity! The NEW Big Green Egg EGGspander System facilitates an extensive variety of multi-tier and multi-zone cooking setups – we count over 40! – to easily utilize the full versatility of the EGG. Available now for the Large EGG, other sizes to follow!

Frames

The Frame holds the interchangeable EGGcessories for over 40 different cooking setups.

There are three different frame options to choose from … you can start with one and add another later, or jump right in with the 5 Piece EGGspander Kit which includes all of the frame components.

For the most versatility the 5 Piece EGGspander Kit is recommended. This kit combines the 2-Piece Multi-Level Rack and the 1-Piece convEGGtor Basket and includes 2 Stainless Steel Half Grids for one complete cooking system. It is easily configured for multi-level direct and indirect cooking, direct “Cowboy style” lower rack cooking, and useful as a convEGGtor Basket.

The 2-Piece Multi-Level Rack is included in the 5 Piece EGGspander kit, but also available to purchase separately. This frame includes an elevated sliding cooking grid with 4 inch clearance for easy access, it reverses for low-level “Cowboy Style” grilling, and it is designed to connect to existing cooking grid. This rack is a starter component for the EGGspander System and it works with the 1 piece convEGGtor basket to complete the EGGspander system.

The third offering is the 1-Piece convEGGtor Basket, included in the 5 Piece EGGspander kit, but also available to purchase separately. Easily place or remove the convEGGtor from the EGG with this frame. It can also be used for multi-level direct and indirect cooking, as well as raised grid cooking. This frame option is a starter component for the EGGspander system. For the full EGGspander system the 2 Piece Multi-Level Rack is recommended.

EGGcessories

We have developed five Half Grid options so each side of the EGGspander can be performing a different task. For instance, you can have the Cast Iron Half Grid on one side and the Half Moon Baking stone on the other so you are simultaneously direct and indirect cooking at the same time. If more space is needed there is an option to combine two of the same half options for the full frame.

The EGGcessories are sold separately and are interchangeable depending on what is needed during your cook.

Stainless Steel Half Grids accommodate multi-tier and multi-zone cooking set-ups. Made with 304 stainless steel, these Grids will hold up to extreme temperatures and are dishwasher safe for easy clean up. Two Stainless Half Grids are included in the 5 Piece EGGspander Kit.

Perforated Half Grids – These handy grids allow heat and flavor to reach the food and make it easy to cook fish or small foods like mushrooms, asparagus, shrimp or scallops that might fall through the standard cooking grids. The half grid leaves half of your cooking space available for direct heat.

Half Moon Baking Stones – Turn your EGG into a fire brick oven, great for making breads, desserts and other baked items. When you add a Half Moon Baking Stone, you can cook indirect on one half of the EGG, while keeping the other half of the grid available for grilling meats or vegetables. The stones are made with Big Green Egg Ceramics and when two are paired it creates a no burn zone convection cooking.

Cast Iron Half Grids – For perfect sear marks on your food, utilize the superior heat conductivity of the dual-sided Cast Iron Grids as an alternative to the primary Stainless Cooking Grids. The cast iron gets very hot and retains the heat, turning it into a perfect searing surface. Flip the grid over for a flat searing surface for fish or seafood.

Half Plancha Griddles – The perfect tool for adding sear marks and a delicious flavor-packed crust to foods! Use in your EGG for everything from blackened chicken and seafood, to grilled vegetables and steakhouse-style seared steaks … and when cooking breakfast, use the flat side for eggs and pancakes, and the ridged side for bacon and sausage!

FIND A DEALER

MORE INFORMATION

How far can the Modular Nests take you?

The Big Green Egg new Modular Nest System allows you to use your full imagination to construct your ultimate outdoor kitchen. Versatile, with unparalleled innovation, the Modular Nests Systems allows for a fully customized setting for your EGG, and be added on to at any point if you want to expand your prep area or add additional EGGs to your grilling space. The Modular Nest System holds your EGG, allows for storage of your accessories and provides ample space to prepare your breakfast, lunch or dinner. Create the outdoor kitchen you desire designed around your Big Green Egg.

Modular Nest EGG Frames

First start with the EGG Frame; this section will hold your EGG. We have two sizes designed to fit the Large and the XL EGG. The EGG Frame is made of aluminum and steel and includes a stainless-steel grid insert and tool hook.

Modular Nest Expansion Frames

The Expansion Frames is where the creativity begins. You can connect as many EGG frames or Expansion Frames as you wish and arrange them in a U shape, L shape, or any shape you design. Imagine your ideal outdoor kitchen layout and you can accomplish it with the Modular Nest System … the options are endless!

Modular Nest Inserts

Modular Nest Inserts are the final touch to your new Modular Nest System. Four stylish finishes – Stainless Steel Grid, Solid Stainless Steel, Acacia Wood and Distressed Acacia Wood – will give your outdoor kitchen a distinctive look, and the inserts are crafted with the highest quality materials that will complement your EGG and hold up to outdoor use.

The totally customizable System is the perfect addition to your Ultimate Cooking Experience. To start building your outdoor kitchen one step at a time, visit your local authorized EGG dealer to see the new Modular Nest System.

Have you ever wondered "Why fertilize" or "What to look for” when it comes to fertilizers?

Why fertilize? We fertilize to provide the proper nutrients so the plants grow and develop healthy. The plants grow in size with better foliage, flowers and fruit. They also are able to withstand stress such as drought and heat and be more resistant to disease and insects. However, over fertilization can result in rampant growth that is thin celled and weak. Fertilization also feeds your soil increasing the biological activity in it, which helps to release many nutrients that already occur for the plants. Healthy soil supports healthy root growth, which support healthy plants.

What to look for. Fertilizers by law have to give their analysis on their label. This is referred to the NPK or percentage of N-nitrogen, P-phosphorous and K-potassium.

Nitrogen helps provide dark green color to leaves and stems and helps produce leafy growth. Nitrogen is generally lacking in our local soils and is depleted annually. Phosphorous aids in root and flower production and can help with cold hardiness.

Phosphorous is usually present in our local soils but needed for seasonal color and vegetable gardens. Potassium increases vigor and disease resistance. It allows plants to be stress hardy against drought, heat, cold and insects and disease.

Potassium gets used up as plants develop, so replacing it with fertilizer keeps it available. As your soil becomes healthier and higher in organic matter less needs to be applied.

Now you know about N-P-K, however these elements can come from different sources. They can come from organic or synthetic sources and can be slow release to fast acting.

Organic fertilizers derive their nutrients from naturally occurring minerals and animal or vegetable waste. Organic fertilizers are nonburning, slow-release (long lasting) and generally increase biological activity in your soil which in turn releases naturally occurring elements locked tight to the clay. Organic fertilizers go to work slower so allow three to four weeks for them to work. Organic fertilizers are what we recommend the most, especially for new yards. The organic fertilizers activate soil microbes and allow the soil to recover from new development and construction. One last advantage is organic fertilizers improve the plants' and soil's ability to absorb and utilize water.

Synthetic fertilizers are generally fast-acting (for impatient people) and their nutrients are derived from processed minerals in the form of salts. They can burn if not applied and watered in properly. Over application can result in soft, tender growth that is weaker and susceptible to disease, so apply per directions.

Copyright © 2019 Voluntary Purchasing Groups. All rights reserved.

Gardening To Do List - March in the Garden

March is a guessing game in the garden. About the only thing we can count on is that March too shall pass. So go ahead and push the envelope, but keep the row covers handy.

Everyone should have their seeds started, their trees and shrubs pruned and their tools ready to go. After that, the most important thing is to have patience.

Here are regional gardening tips to take with a spoonful of judgement.

Everyone

• Start feeding houseplants again. Repot, if necessary.


• Avoid walking on wet soil in the garden.


• Get your soil tested.




Alaska






• Check on your rhubarb.


• Start seeds indoors.



Florida






• It’s tropical season, but be prepared for cold spells.


• Keep watering, especially new plants.


• Start replacing cool weather annuals with summer varieties.


• Get perennials in the ground to establish them.


• Plant summer bulbs, tubers, etc., like blood lily, caladiums, canna and elephant ears.


• Begin planting warm season crops.


• Finish up winter shrub pruning and cut back any flowering shrubs as the blossoms fade.


• Transplant container grown citrus trees. Fertilizer established trees now.



Hawaii






• Start feeding your gardenias.


• Keep mulching.



Mid-Atlantic






• Hardy annuals can go out even before last expected frost.


• Wait until the soil warms and dries before planting summer bulbs, tubers, etc.


• Perennial vegetables and fruits can be planted once danger of frost has passed and the ground is workable.


• Prune roses before the buds break.


• Plant shrubs when the ground warms.



Midwest






• Start Seeds Indoors. Cut back grasses.


• Check shrubs for damage. Finish pruning.


• Start spraying fruit trees.


• Remove burlap coverings from around evergreens.


• Cut back sub-shrub perennials like buddleia and caryopteris.



Northeast






• Start seeds of warm season vegetables and flowers indoors.


• Force some spring blooming trees and shrubs like forsythia, pussy willow, quince and carb apples.


• Keep tabs on plant crowns that may have heaved out of the ground during a thaw.


• Begin removing mulch at the end of the month, as temperatures increase.



Northern California






• Plant summer blooming bulbs, tubers, etc..


• Fertilize trees & shrubs.


• Feed your roses.


• Harden off and set out seedlings.


• Plant potatoes.


• Prune old growth off the bougainvillea.



Pacific NW






• Start seeds of greens indoors.


• Plant peas at the end of the month.


• Deadhead early bloomers.


• Keep mulching.


• Be diligent about hunting slugs.



Southeast






• Plant out cool season vegetables (Broccoli, cabbage, chard, greens, lettuce, peas, root veggies)and flowers.


• Plant berry bushes.


• Start seeds of warm season vegetables indoors (eggplant, peppers, tomatoes) and flowers.


• Direct seed outdoors, any cool season greens and root crops like beets, carrots, onions, radishes and turnips.


• Finish pruning while woody plants are still dormant.



Southern California






• Scout for slugs & snails.


• Divide fall blooming perennials.


• Spray fruit trees.


• Start seeds, if you haven’t already.



Southwest






• Time to pull back the mulch and start warming the soil.


• You can still get a freeze. Keep covers handy.


• Plant vegetables
  
  
  
  • Outdoors: beets, corn, greens, lettuce, potatoes.
  
  
  • Indoors: eggplant, melons, peppers, tomatoes, squash.
  
  
  • Plant summer bulbs.

  ---

  By Marie Iannotti, About.com Guide
  Regional Gardening Guide for March

From Hobby Farming For Dummies

By Theresa A. Husarik

If you’re thinking about taking up farming as a hobby, educate yourself about the responsibilities. Research hobby farming by using local resources (like the library and neighbors), using the Internet, and volunteering at a farm. When you decide to plant, make sure you know your area’s growing season and to rotate your crops to maintain soil and plant quality. Keep your farm animals healthy by providing basic care and provisions and watching for signs of illness.

Hobby Farming: Know Your Growing Seasons

Deciding which crops to plant depends on how well things will grow on your farm. The length of the growing season is vital because you want your plants to produce fruit before the first frost. Determine the best times for growing by checking the back of seed packets or by consulting the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone map.

The following table shows the average last and first frost dates, marking the start and end of the growing season for various regions in the United States.

USDA Plant Hardiness Zone

Plant Rotation Suggestions for Hobby Farming

Rotating the plants (crops) on your farm enhances plant health and soil quality. To rotate your plantings, divide your garden into several sections and plant each section with a different family of plant. Next year, plant something from the next family. For instance, plant squash in section one the first year; the next year, plant peas there; next year, plant tomatoes; and well, you get the idea.

Examples

Gourds Squash, melons, zucchini, pumpkins, cucumbers

Legumes Beans and peas

Nightshades Eggplants, potatoes, peppers, and tomatoes

Carrots Carrot, dill, parsnips, and parsley

Mustards Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, mustard,

radishes, and turnips

Beets Beets, spinach, and chard

Onions Onions, leeks, and garlic

 Hobby Farming: Basics of Farm Animal Care

What’s a farm without animals? A hobby farmer who wants to raise animals must understand that he or she is responsible for their care. Animals need food, water, exercise and clean shelter everyday. Good hygiene and care can deter health problems. This is the minimum care you should give your farm animals:

•Provide clean (and unfrozen) water daily.

•Provide sufficient food (each animal has different diet requirements).

•Keep the living area clean.

•Provide proper grooming (each animal has different needs)

•Provide exercise or the opportunity for the animal to just get out and run.

•If animals are herd animals (such as alpacas), be sure to have at least two.

•Interact with your animals regularly not only so they get used to your being in the pen but also so bonds can form.

Hobby Farming: Warning Signs of Illness in Farm Animals

A hobby farmer, like a commercial farmer, must keep an eye on the health of the farm animals by checking them routinely. Daily observation tells you the animals’ habits, and will help you determine if something is wrong or if your animal is sick.

The following signs are warnings that your farm animal has an illness:

•The animal is lethargic or just not very active.

•The animal isn’t eating.

•The animal is getting thin.

•The animal’s milk production is off.

•There’s a change in the animal’s stools (you notice diarrhea or straining and a lack of stools, indicating constipation).

Deciding on Farming as a Hobby

If you decide to leave the hubbub of the city for farming, remember that farming involves tasks that aren’t part of the responsibilities of city jobs. Here are some ways to lessen the learning curve if you decide to take up hobby farming:

•Do some research so you can make a more informed decision. Besides all the pencil-to-the-paper research, like on the Internet, you can do some feet-to-the-pavement research — get out on the streets and go to the local businesses, the local library, the local county building, and so on.

•Do volunteer work. Maybe help on a local farm — milk cows, clean animal stalls, help with the weeding or picking. Not only does this give you some good experience (and let you test the waters), but it also gives you the fun experience of being involved.

•Hang out on a farm and watch what goes on.

•Start your operation small and leave room for expansion.

•Build off skills you already have.

•Keep detailed records to facilitate trial and error (so you know what worked and what didn’t)

Where to Find Information on Hobby Farming:

Finding information about farming (hobby or otherwise) isn’t hard — plenty of resources are available. After you’ve exhausted all of the books at your library and scanned the Internet for information about farming, try these other sources of agricultural information:

•Your local cooperative extension office

•Your local county office

•Your state’s official Web site (www.<yourstate>.gov)

•Your neighbors, friends, or friends of friends who’ve taken the plunge

•The staff at the local feed store

•USDA

•FEMA

•Your local county library system

Which Type of Chicken Should You Get?

By The Old Farmer's Almanac

Dec 11, 2018

Choosing the right chicken breed is an important part of raising chickens. Here are some things to consider when trying to find the right chicken breed for you.

See the first post in our Raising Chickens 101 series: How to Get Started Raising Chickens

What Types of Chickens Should You Get?

When it comes to choosing your chickens, there are more breeds than you can shake an eggbeater at. One of the delights of this step is learning some of the types of chickens and their names: Silkie, Showgirl, Silver-Laced Wyandotte, Rosecomb, Redcap, and Russian Orloff, to name a few.

Things to Consider

Some things that you’ll want to consider include the number and color of eggs produced, the breed’s temperament, its noise level, and its adaptability to confinement. If you can’t let your chickens range free, the confinement factor is important for a happy, healthy flock. Noise level really matters if you do not reside in the country. Some sources advise against mixing ages, but I’ve never had trouble with older birds picking on younger ones.

Chantecler

My Favorite Chicken Breeds

Most varieties thrive in all climates, although some have special needs: Phoenix and Minorcas chickens need heat, for example, and Brahmas and Chanteclers chickens prefer cool conditions. Every breed produces eggs, even the so-called ornamental breeds, but egg size and production vary. Medium-production layers are plenty for a family. Bantam chicken eggs are small; to complement their yolks, you’ll need more whites than most angel food cake recipes call for.

I kept Rhode Island Reds and Barred Plymouth Rocks, both of which are usually available from a local hatchery. These are docile, not particularly noisy, high-laying, dual-purpose chicken breeds that take confinement well. They gave me 75 percent egg production—that is, a dozen chickens produced nine eggs a day while they were laying.

Another favorite of mine is the Jersey Giant. It is black or white, and large. (My black Jersey Giant rooster was 16 inches at the saddle!) The hens are medium- rather than high-laying chickens, but the eggs are larger than those of the Plymouth Rock or Rhode Island Red. This breed is calm and docile but needs more room because of its size.

Barred Plymouth Rock

Araucanas are flighty (not docile), but they thrive in almost any climate, take confinement well, and are quiet. If you want to make them more calm and docile, try hypnotizing them (and no, we’re not kidding!) Plus, the green-shelled eggs are a novelty. (One of my Rhode Island Red hens mated with an Araucana cock and gave me a hen that laid olive eggs!)

My dream team would include Easter Eggers. (Yes, that’s really the breed name!) They’re similar in temperament to Araucanas and lay blue or green eggs. It may take me a while to track them down, but—hey!—the dream team is worth it.

More of Raising Chickens 101

See more of our beginner’s guide to raising chickens:

By Cynthia McFarland

If you’re like most horse owners, you’re under the impression that deworming is something that takes place a few times a year. But did you know there’s a different way to protect your horse from certain parasites?

Daily dewormers are intended as a barrier against parasites and therefore used every day as compared to “purge dewormers,” which are administered weeks or months apart.

Tom Kennedy, Ph.D., a veterinary parasitologist based in Westport, Wisconsin, explains the difference between these two approaches to deworming.

“Purge deworming with one of the several products approved for such use is based on the premise that the only way to treat parasites is to allow the horse to accumulate the worms from the environment so that we can treat them,” Kennedy notes. “The worms go through their normal life cycle in the horse and when they reach the life stage where the purge is effective, we can kill the worms.”

Purge dewormers interrupt the infestation cycle of the parasites but don’t prevent their larvae from migrating through the horse, which is the cycle when most internal damage takes place.

On the other hand, a daily dewormer prevents parasite infestations from occurring in the first place. These products protect against an extensive array of species and stages of equine parasites, including adult large strongyles, adult small strongyles, fourth-stage larvae, pinworms and adult ascarids.

“Daily dewormers for horses are designed to be a ‘barrier’ to worms,” says Kennedy. “With the only approved anthelmintic used in a daily dewormer–pyrantel tartrate–we feed the daily dewormer which is conveniently mixed into the gut contents of the horse. When worm larvae enter the horse via the mouth and travel down the digestive tract, they encounter the drug through the entire journey and are killed before they can complete the life cycle.”

A DAILY DEWORMER PREVENTS PARASITE INFESTATIONS FROM OCCURRING IN THE FIRST PLACE.

Pyrantel tartrate works by attacking the neuromuscular system of parasite larvae. In essence, it paralyzes them and they are passed out of the horse’s body with the manure. Because the parasites are killed before they can migrate through the horse’s digestive system, they aren’t able to inflict serious damage. An added benefit is that pyrantel tartrate breaks down in sunlight after passing through the horse’s system, so you don’t have to worry about harmful effects on the environment.

Even if your horse is on a daily dewormer, you may find it necessary, on occasion, to use an additional purge deworming product to cover “exposure gaps.” For example, pyrantel tartrate is not effective against botfly larvae or tapeworms (cestodes). If your horse is exposed to these parasites, you’ll need to treat him with an effective botfly and cestocidal product as described in labeling for those products.

Could Your Horse Benefit?

Kennedy explains that daily deworming makes sense for a variety of horses in a number of different situations. These include mares before and after foaling, horses stabled with other equines when you don’t know if/when they have been dewormed, and performance horses traveling to venues where the parasite contamination level may be of concern. Young foals and elderly and debilitated horses also stand to benefit from a daily deworming routine.

Always read the label and follow usage directions carefully. There is a wide safety margin, typically making daily dewormers safe to use on horses of all ages, including breeding stallions and mares at any stage of pregnancy or lactation. Foals need to be consistently eating a grain mix in order for you to give a daily dewormer, which commonly begins between the ages of two and three months.

Getting Started

Before you embark on a daily deworming program, your veterinarian will likely recommend administering a broad spectrum-dewormer, such as ivermectin. This is to rid the horse of blood worms that may be in the migration cycle.

A daily dewormer product is fed according to weight, so you’ll need to use a weight tape to get a close estimation of how much your horse weighs.

If you’re using a daily dewormer, remember that it must be given every day. Skipping a day allows lowered levels of drug in the gut contents, and a loss of continuous efficacy.

You’re already ahead of the game if you’re using fecal egg count testing, which many veterinarians recommend. This testing is still helpful if you’re using a daily dewormer. Fecal egg counts are an effective tool to monitor the effectiveness of any deworming program. Your veterinarian can explain how and when these simple tests should be done.

“Fecal egg count is also helpful to use in a rotational deworming program to determine which products in the rotation are effective,” adds Kennedy. “Rotation of the chemical class of dewormer is one way to manage the useful life of the product on the market.”

Unlike some other classes of deworming drugs, resistance to pyrantel-based dewormers has not become a problem, which is good news for horse owners using daily dewormers.

Protect Your Horse from Diseases Carried by Insect Pests

By Cynthia McFarland

Horse owners tend to think of flies and mosquitoes as annoying nuisances. That’s certainly true, but they can also be downright dangerous as both can spread serious and even life-threatening diseases.

Mosquitoes transmit West Nile Virus (WNV), Eastern Equine Encephalomyelitis (EEE) and Western Equine Encephalomyelitis (WEE). Flies are responsible for spreading Pigeon Fever, Equine Infectious Anemia (EIA) and play a role in summer sores.

Let’s take a brief look at these diseases and what you can do to protect your horse.

Equine Encephalomyelitis

Also known as “sleeping sickness,” Eastern and Western Equine Encephalomyelitis (EEE, WEE) are life-threatening viral diseases that attack the central nervous system. Both EEE and WEE are spread by infected mosquitoes that pick up the virus by feeding on an infected bird. There is no cure.

“EEE is a very serious neurologic disease, with a mortality rate in affected horses of 90 to 95%,” says Martha Mallicote, DVM, a large animal internal medicine specialist at the University of Florida in Gainesville.

“Although we think of these diseases as being primarily a problem in the southern U.S., a number of EEE cases were reported in New England and other northern regions in 2013,” she notes. “It is essential to vaccinate strategically to ensure your horse’s immunity to disease is at its best during mosquito season.”

West Nile Virus

This disease originated in Africa and the first cases were found in the U.S. in 1999. Since then, it has been reported in almost every state and most Canadian provinces. WNV is less likely to result in death than encephalomyelitis, but it can require extensive veterinary treatment and may result in long-lasting neurologic deficits in affected horses.

“Horses can be protected from these viruses with a routine vaccination program. Vaccines are very effective if given correctly and are a core part of equine vaccine recommendations,” says Mallicote.

Talk with your veterinarian about a vaccination schedule that fits your particular horse and where you live. Recommendations may vary depending on your horse’s age, use and whether or not you travel to shows and events.

Mallicote recommends reducing mosquito exposure by eliminating their breeding grounds.

“Water troughs should be routinely dumped and cleaned and any standing water around the farm should be drained,” she advises. “Insect repellents (labeled for use on horses) will make your horse less attractive to the mosquitoes and fans can prevent them from landing, due to creating air turbulence around the horse.”

Equine Infectious Anemia

When your veterinarian pulls blood for a “Coggins” test, he/she is testing for the viral disease known as Equine Infectious Anemia (EIA). Horse flies spread EIA when they bite an infected horse and then bite a healthy horse. There is no vaccine for EIA.

TALK WITH YOUR VETERINARIAN ABOUT A VACCINATION SCHEDULE THAT FITS YOUR HORSE AND WHERE YOU LIVE.

EIA once killed thousands of horses every year, but fortunately, this is no longer the case. Since EIA testing was instituted in the early 1970s, the incidence of EIA in the U.S. has been reduced to almost zero.

Summer Sores

Some horses are more susceptible than others to cutaneous habronemiasis, more commonly known as “summer sores,” those unsightly, weeping skin lesions caused by the infective larvae of stomach worms.

House and stable flies are part of the process because their larvae ingest the larvae of stomach worms (Habronema muscae and Draschia megastoma) found in the horse’s manure. Once adult flies emerge from the pupa, they carry the infective nematode larvae. When these flies feed on a horse’s lips and nostrils, or on wounds on their body, they leave larvae behind. The skin lesions are a reaction to migration of larval stages of the worms. When the horse licks or swallows the larvae, they mature into worms in the horse’s stomach and the cycle continues. Horses can also ingest the larvae if infected flies fall into water or feed tubs.

Pigeon Fever

Also known as “dryland distemper” and Corynebacterium pseudotuberculosis, Pigeon Fever was first reported in horses in California in 1915. Although historically considered most common in that state, in recent years Pigeon Fever has been reported throughout the U.S., including several Eastern states.

The bacterium that causes Pigeon Fever survives and thrives in soil contaminated by fecal matter. The infection is spread by exposure to contaminated soil, by horn flies, stable flies and house flies, and may also be spread by horse-to-horse contact. High temperatures and drought conditions often precede outbreaks.

“Most infected horses develop deep muscle abscesses that may resemble Strangles abscesses,” says Mallicote. “The name Pigeon Fever stems from the fact that many abscesses are found in the pectoral region and result in an appearance similar to a ‘puffed-out pigeon.’ It is difficult to truly quarantine affected animals, due to the spread of bacteria by flies in their environment. It is most essential that when abscesses are drained, the purulent material that drains out is cleaned up and the area disinfected carefully. Good fly control is also important to prevent the spread of the bacteria.”

To fight against fly-borne disease, it is important to practice good sanitation methods and fly control. Be diligent about removing manure from horse areas and keep the manure pile as far from the barn as possible. Ideally, you should utilize a program in which manure is deposited in a dumpster and removed regularly.

Protect your horse with fly repellents and insecticides during fly season. Read labels and apply products carefully following all recommendations. The use of fly masks, sheets and fly boots may also be helpful.

Your veterinarian may also recommend feed-through fly control products. These are added to the horse’s feed and contain insect growth regulators that kill the larvae in the horse’s manure, interrupting the fly life cycle. Such products don’t control adult flies, but can aid in the overall battle against these pests.